Viper-M1 Hyper FAQ
V1.1
1/1/98
by
Bill Mills
V1.1
1/1/98
by
Bill Mills
Feel free to print and store this document for your own personal use. This document may not be distributed without direct written permission from its author.
If you have any questions about the Viper-M1 that are not addressed by this FAQ, or you have experience with a Viper-M1 and have material to contribute to this FAQ, please e-mail bill@warpig.com.
7.0 What accessories are available for the Viper-M1?
8.0 What aftermarket barrels are available for the Viper-M1?
9.0 How can I tell if I have a pre 1997 Viper M1?
10.00 What differenced between 1997 and prior model Vipers?
US Amateur Sports, looking to get into the paintball market as well as other amateur sports markets,
bought the rights and Lazer-II inventory, and set their production business unit, USA Performance
Products, to the task of refining the Lazer-II and producing this new paintgun. Thus the Viper-M1 was
born. The Viper-M1 differs greatly from the Lazer-II in that it uses a bore drop barrel. Having the
balls drop directly into the barrel eliminated a seam and dramatically reduced ball breakage. The gas
path and valving of the Viper-M1 has also been re-designed for increased efficiency, and
consistency.
USAmateur Sports
Web Site:http://www.usas.com/viper
Investor/Stockholder web site:www.ussp-stock.com
Over The Counter Stock Symbol: USSP
4.3 Remove the valve
5.2 Double firing, or not re-cocking.
5.3 Gas is leaking down the barrel.
1.0 What is a Viper-M1?
1.1 General Description and history
1.2 US Amateur Sports
The Viper-M1 is a semi automatic
paintgun. Its predecessors are the Lazer and the Lazer-II. In many ways the Viper-M1 can be
thought of as a Lazer-III. The manufacturers of the original Lazer redesigned their paintgun into the
Lazer-II, incorporating many of the features of the Viper-M1, including the integrated expansion
chamber. Unfortunately, there were some problems with the Lazer-II, and the manufacturer ran into
financial troubles, eventually turning over the rights and inventory to Micro-Tool, the company that
had been manufacturing for them.
US Amateur Sports is a company formed for promoting and marketing amateur sports. Their goals
include building a "sportsplex" from which to televise paintball, softball, indoor rock climbing, and
other amateur sports tournaments. They are also marketing sports products for these various
activities. For more information read the company profile in the April issue of Paintball Industry
magazine. The Viper-M1 is produced by their sports products business unit, USA Performance
Products.
USAmateur Sports can be contacted at:
(888) 622-3622 (toll free)
3970 RCA Blvd., Suite 7010
Palm Beach Gardens, FL 334102.0 What connection is there between USAS, WARPIG, and Bill and Dawn
Mills?
This really has nothing to do with the technical aspects of maintaining a Viper-M1, but I think it's
important, so you can tell what direction I am coming from in writing this. In the early spring of 1996,
US Amateur Sports contacted me and asked if my wife Dawn and I would test their new marker, and
provide feedback to them. We replied that we would love to, and would also like the opportunity to
write about it. Less than a week later, the Viper-M1 had arrived. We took it out on the field, and liked
it. We recommended they mill slots into the grip frame screws to make them easier to remove if
stuck. New grip screws arrived within a week, and we understand the slotted screws are now a
standard feature. Dawn and I wrote a review of the marker for Action Pursuit Games, and I
wrote an article about US Amateur Sports for Paintball Industry. Meanwhile, this Viper-M1 we
have probably sees the most use out of all of our paintguns. US Amateur Sports has taken out
advertisements on WARPIG to promote their web site, and has provided some Viper-M1 paintguns
for us to give away in contests (and it is fun to give paintball stuff to people :-). As time has passed,
we have gotten to know most of the staff at USAS. When I wrote V1 of this FAQ, neither Dawn or
myself were
sponsored by USAS, or are employed by USAS. Since that time, our company (Corinthian Media
Services) has been contracted by USAS to consult with them about the paintball market, to manage
portions of their advertising campaigns, and they have provided travel expenses allowing us to attend
selected paintball events in exchange for our operating their trade show booth. Both for reasons
related to Dawn's health, and anticipated future promotional work with USAS, we have relocated to
Palm Beach Gardens, FL where they are based. We still are not direct employees, and are not under
any contractual or fiscal obligation to play with, or recommend any of their products. As a thank you
for hosting the All American Bowl paintball challenge, we were
given a quantity of stock in the company. While we really like our Viper-M1, it is not the only
paintgun we use. We still put in game time with our Stingrays, our Vector, our 'cocker, our Mags, and
even our Nightmares, as well as testing of other markers every now and again. For both of us
though, our preferred marker of late has been the Viper-M1. It has a lot of features that we like, and a
good over all feel.
3.0 What are some of the features of the Viper-M1?
3.1 Specifications
3.2 The Mag Chamber
One of the features I really like about the Viper-M1 is the very stable velocity - even on straight
CO2. When my wife Dawn played in the Zap Amateur Open, the velocity stability was so solid that
the chrono ref was pointing it out to people. In my experience, I've been running less than +/- 3 fps. I
think one
of the main reasons for this stability is the Mag Chamber, the expansion chamber that is integrated
into the Viper-M1's receiver. A lot of people view an expansion chamber as providing "room for CO2
to expand". I've never really understood that explanation, as the pressure on a gas is dependent on
its temperature, more than anything else. It follows that an expansion chamber that can exchange
heat with the outside environment the best, will do the best job of consistently maintaining the
temperature of the gas, and thus maintaining an even pressure. The more even the pressure, the
more consistent the velocity can be from shot to shot. If I were to go shopping for an expansion
chamber, I'd want one that had heat sink fins on it, to maximize the area in contact with the air. Well,
the Viper-M1 goes a little further. The expansion chamber is actually a part of the receiver, so it gets
to use the entire receiver of the paintgun to exchange heat. I think that is one of the main reasons it
is so consistent at the chrono. In addition, 1997 and later Vipers include a pressure compensating
valve. This valve stays open longer at lower gas pressures and closes faster at higher pressures,
resulting in an even more stable velocity.
3.3 Balance
This is one of the reasons I really like the Viper-M1. It has great balance. Since the CO2 tank screws
into the bottom of the Mag Chamber, and angles back, it places the center of balance (when running
a 12 oz. tank) right at the trigger. This makes it very usable, even one handed, and the Mag
Chamber also makes a great fore-grip as well.
3.4 Ease of use and dependability
My experiences with the Viper-M1 have proven it to be extremely reliable. It, along with my Minimag
the only marker I have used that has never failed to operate. Never. From getting it in
February of '96 through August of '96, I experienced one, count that, one, ball break. That is using
the original foamy style bolt both with and without a foamy installed.
In the fall of 1996, I switched to the factory foamiless model, and experienced a couple of ball breaks
while using some really old paint (what can I say, I was desperate to play - and the only good paint I
had on hand I had to use for reviewing another marker for APG). Further use determined that
the paint was the culprit. I have not had any problems with bolt stick, seal failure, re-cock problems,
double feeding, or any trouble setting velocity.
3.5 Ease of velocity adjustment
3.6 Quick release barrel
The velocity adjustment on the Viper-M1 is very simple. There is a hex screw on the side
of the receiver that is adjusted with an allen wrench (included in the parts kit). There are no springs
to swap, no parts that need to be removed, then replaced after the adjustment, and the adjustment
can be made while the marker is still connected to its gas supply. The position of the velocity screw
indicates wether the Viper is a pre 1997 model or not. 1997 and later models have the velocity
adjuster on the left hand side, while first release models have it on the right. This simple step while it
seems pretty silly reduces production costs and errors because the receiver does not have to be
flipped over on the mill.
3.7 Lifetime Warranty
The barrel on the Viper-M1 releases with a 1/4 turn. The concept is similar to the release on an
Automag, only different. It differs in where the friction lies. On the Viper-M1, there are no o-rings to
cause drag when the barrel is sliding in and out. One o-ring is compressed between a lip on the
barrel, and the front of the receiver. Within the first 5 degrees or so of turn on the barrel, the o-ring is
de-compressed, and the barrel turns smoothly, and it slides out with almost no resistance.
USA Performance Products warrants the Viper-M1 for life, for the original owner. Also, they upgrade
Lazer-IIs to Viper-M1s free of charge.
4.0 How do I strip down the Viper-M1?
4.1 Twist and remove the barrel
If you have a pre 1997 Viper M1, you must leave the ball stopper knob in the "on" position while
removing the barrel, or it will catch on the breech. This is not a problem in 1997 and later production
runs, so you can easily switch it to the off position, preventing balls from pouring out the receiver
when the barrel is off.
4.2 Remove the CO2 supply
4.4 Remove grip frame
Removing the Viper-M1's valve is quick and easy. Unscrew the knob below the barrel, and it will
slide out with the valve spring guide, valve spring, and the valve cup seal. Be sure to inspect the cup
seal for any nicks or foreign object damage from debris that may have gotten in through the CO2
supply. When re-assembling the valve, a light bit of Snake Oil on the spring and the valve stem is a
good idea. Snake Oil is the paintgun oil that USA Performance started shipping with the Viper in the
winter of 1997. If you can't get ahold of Snake Oil, any of the paintgun oils from Gold Cup (Gold Cup,
Autlube, Indian Creek) are approved by USA Performance. You shouldn't have any problem with
light machine oils like 3 in 1, but using a paintgun oil you know you will have something that won't
break down, or gum up under the temperatures involved. You'll want to make sure the hammer is
either out, or cocked, so that the valve will seat fully
when you put it back in.
The two screws that hold in the grip frame are simply unscrewed, and the grip frame lifts off. Under
the heads of the screws on pre 1997 models are thin rubber friction washers that keep the screws
from slipping loose. On 1997 and later models, an o-ring in a groove in the screw provides locking
friction. While USA Performance says this o-ring is a different size than the others used in the
marker, I have tested it, and it's worked as a replacement for the valve knob and the bolt o-ring. They
don't recommend it, but these o-rings should work as emergency replacements if you get in a pinch.
If the grip frame screws are too tight to release by hand, use a quarter in the slots on their face to
loosen them.
4.5 Remove the cocking knob
4.6 Removing the bolt.
The cocking knob should be able to be removed by hand. If it is too tight for that, you can use the
allen wrench from the parts kit to loosen it. Once it is removed, it becomes a tool to take out the link
pin. The link pin connects the bolt in the upper receiver to the hammer in the lower receiver.
Looking through the hole in the top of the sight rail, you can line up the link pin with the hole. Then
the cocking knob will screw into the top of the link pin, and you can slide it out. When you put the link
pin back in later, you will need to be careful to align it properly in the hammer. It has an indentation
that the cocking knob fits into. Once the link pin is back in, you can see if it is aligned by looking at
the hammer, in the threaded opening where the cocking knob goes. It will be readily apparent
whether or
not the link pin is properly aligned. When replacing the cocking knob, the collar on it will act as a lock
washer, so as tight as you can get it by hand is good enough. While I haven't had a cocking knob
loosen and fall out on field, it's a good idea to be in the habit of checking and tightening it while on the
field.
4.7 Removing the hammer.
The bolt will now slide easily out of the upper receiver if you tilt the receiver forward. You can also
remove the top receiver back plug, which has a rubber bumper attached to it, and slide the bolt out
the back of the receiver. I find it is easier to remove the bolt from the front, and replace it through the
back, due to changing diameters in the upper receiver. It's a good idea to lightly oil the o-rings on the
bolt before re-inserting it. Also, it is important that you note the bolt alignment. There is a gas hole in
the bottom center of the bolt. If the bolt goes back in upside down, the gas will not flow properly
through the bolt, and you will end up with a surprisingly low velocity.
Remove the bottom receiver plug, and with it will come the hammer spring, and the hammer spring
guide. When re-inserting the hammer, the two
o-rings it rides on should get a light coating of oil. You may notice some wear on the bottom of the
hammer. Some of the nickel plating has worn off where the sear contacts the hammer on Dawn's
Viper. This has not been the case on other Vipers I have seen (including thecustomized Vipers we
now have).
According to USAS and my experience, this has no effect on performance. Check to
make sure that there are no dings or pits in the hardened steel that is beneath the nickel plating. That
is the only wear that could cause any problems. Also, when you have put the lower receiver plug
back in, make sure to align the mark on its back vertically. This aligns the opening for the rear frame
screw to lock the lower receiver plug in place.5.0 Trouble Shooting
5.1 Low velocity.
6.0 The article in APG said the Viper-M1 has a foamy. Why doesn't
mine?
The foamy style bolt was replaced by a newer design that does not use the foamy, which eleminated
the maintenance problem of foamy replacement. Viper-M1s which shipped with the foamy style bolt
included replacement foamies in the spare parts kit. They can be installed with a bit of cyanoacrylate
"superglue". In my experience this is not really necessary. I have used the foamy style bolt without
the foamy and experienced no problems.
7.0 What accessories are available for the Viper-M1?
The following are available from USA Performance Products:
I thought this wasn't amazing, until I tried one at the Pittsburgh Amateur Open. It isn't just a
double finger trigger. The trigger springs are lightened, and the sear is adjusted for a shorter and
lighter trigger pull. Basically it's like a trigger job in a box. You just bolt it on.
At the time we received our .45 grip frame they were shipping with Hogue .45 wraparound grips,
but other grips may be shipping with the frame. The grip on the Viper-M1 in most of the pictures in
this FAQ is the VXT .45 grip frame with Full Bore Products flat grip panels installed. Since the
Viper-M1 is made to accept a standard M-16 style grip, most after-market grips and grip frames will
fit, like other .45 grip frames, or the PMI eurogrips.
This raised sight rail not only makes a good sight on its own, but also a handy carrying handle.
8.0 What aftermarket barrels are available for the Viper-M1?
At the time of this writing, no aftermarket barrels are in mass prodiuction. I have a prototype J&J
Hardchrome barrel. J&J has said that when they feel there is enough demand, they will begin
producing Viper M1 barrels. Performance of the prototype is very similar to the USA Performance
12" barrel, except is is noticably quieter, due to the whisper porting they include. Also the breech is a
little tighter, and if I don't take the front o-ring off of the Viper bolt, performance is not consistant.
Another major barrel manufacturer has also said they intend to produce barrels for the Viper with no
concern of quantity, because they use computer controlled milling equipment that can produce large
or small numbers of barrels at similar cost. It is my understanding that USA Performance is providing
them with the needed measurements to make this possible.
9.0 How can I tell if I have a pre 1997 Viper M1?
The surest sign that you have a pre 1997 Viper M1 is that the velocity adjusting screw is on the
right hand side. Does this matter? In most cases no. The original Viper we tested (and still use)
continues to operate trouble free. If you are ordering replacement, or internal upgrade parts, it is
important, if you have a pre-1997 Viper that you give the serial number to USA Performance so that
you get the correct part. Mixing and matching new components on some of these 1995 and 1996
production models can cause physical damage to the parts and or the receiver.
10.00 What differenced between 1997 and prior model Vipers?